Use Case -
A radiator was deleted, a wall moved, there is a giant unnecessary vent in the middle of the hallway, or maybe you added on a room. It's an 1890 Victorian, a1917 craftsman, or a 1960 rambler and new flooring of the same species and grade looks so different it might as well be another species. And in fact, the wrong species of the right age will often look more natural than adding new to old. Old flooring is born of forest, rather than farm where competition for light is fierce creating a slower growth and tighter structure. Dramatic too are the effects of light and air on the harvested product over the course of many years.
Get the right material -
It never ceases to amaze me that even amongst seasoned professionals you see red oak patching into a white oak floor, maple in a birch floor, or pine on fir. I can help you. Take in-focus photographs displaying the room at large, and closer photographs displaying the tiny structure detail of the grain. Measure twice, buy once. Although there are certainly common sizes which are still made today, flooring mills were not standardized throughout history. Never assume it is 1.5, or 2.25" wide, it's hard to see an eighth or quarter of an inch and I do have some odd widths available. Thickness so too varies. While 3/4" stock is certainly the most common, many old homes have 3/8" thick flooring as it used to be a popular economy option before the availability of plastic coverings, sometimes present only in the upstairs. Thicker 1" thick flooring comes up from time to time too, but way less commonly. You can find the thickness by lifting out a vent or by pulling a little trim to see the side profile. Best of all you can bring in a piece of the flooring itself for us to inspect.
Anticipate extra time for installation:
If your just doing small patches it probably isn't going to impact your time much as you would be doing some trimming with table saw regardless but if you are adding on a room the installation process is slowed due to inspections and corrections. Each board should be sited for clear tongue and grooves. The butt ends should be thought out as well. There will often be a mix of end match T&G and wall cuts, which may or may not be square. It is good to have a table saw, and a router with a groove bit handy to clear obstruction and add slip tongues if needed. keep both regular wood glue and silane floor adhesive handy. Silane based adhesive such as Berger Seidle M1 allows the movement of wood during humidity changes. I like to use glue assistance always with salvage regardless of nailing because the groove can be cracked on the bottom lip and the tongue has already been nailed. By fastening from underneath with silane glue you are assured of reliable fixture to subfloor.
Anticipate extra time for sanding:
One thing I ensure about the salvage I offer is that it still has a lot of meat on the bone. By that I mean it still has many years and sandings available to the wear layer. If the salvage has never been sanded before it will be flat but also there will likely be a stubborn coating on it which will require course abrasives and more frequent sandpaper changes. Actually the best material has had the old shellac and wax removed by a professional in the not so distant past. We can't always pick the material precisely and often its a stroke of good luck just to get what is going to match for your restoration. As a dealer of reclaimed material my job is to communicate with you the condition of the sides and top so that you can adjust your scheduling.
Expelling a myth:
120 year old wood is just as hydroscopic as new wood. I learned this the hard way on a job where I assumed that "this wood is done moving", well 12% to 7% (and dropping to 5% in the winter) paid me back with excessive gaps. The flooring at Ground Floor Supply is in a climate controlled environment with modern forced air just like a new home, but moisture readings should be taken to ensure that you have a close match as not every environment is the same - follow the same rules as you do with new wood!
It's worth it!
The price of lumber is typically in the same ballpark as new material, but the labor is greater. The end result is a home with a feeling of uninterrupted history and it is worth it!
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